Your manual wins. These are general practices. When your tool's manual says something different, follow the manual.
Air filter
- Where: under a cover on top of or beside the engine.
- Paper or pleated: tap out loose dust; replace when you can't see light through it or it's oily.
- Foam: wash in warm soapy water, rinse, squeeze dry (don't wring), and lightly oil if the manual calls for it.
- Felt or mesh (chainsaws): brush or blow from the inside out, or wash per the manual.
- How often: dusty work clogs filters fast. Check every few hours of use in dust, and at every tune-up.
A clogged air filter makes the engine run rich, smoke, lose power and foul the plug.
Fuel filter (in the tank)
Most handheld 2-stroke tools have a small filter on the end of the fuel line inside the tank, often called the clunk. 1. Empty the tank into an approved can. 2. Fish the line out of the fuel opening with a bent wire or hooked tool. Don't stretch or crack the line. 3. Pull off the old filter and push on the new one. 4. Drop it back in so it sits at the bottom of the tank.
Replace it yearly or when the tool bogs at full throttle. Mowers usually have an inline filter between the tank and carburetor; check the arrow points toward the carburetor.
Spark arrestor screen
A small screen in the muffler stops sparks. When it clogs with carbon, the tool loses power. 1. Let the engine cool completely. 2. Remove the muffler cover and screen. 3. Clean carbon with a wire brush, or replace it if it's torn.
Many public lands require a working spark arrestor. Never run the tool with it removed.
Manufacturer instructions
Your tool manual is the final word. Find yours by model number:
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